Explorer ProComp (Bullseye) 3" Lifting Spindle for 2WD Explorers Install
Notes:
OK, this is my first attempt to do a write-up
so bare with me but correct me if I am incorrect on something.
This project was done on a 1997 2WD Ford Explorer Sport with no major suspension
modifications except Edelbrock IAS Shocks an a Warrior shackle/torsion twist
(TT).
This lift will not work for 4-wheel drive
Explorers. You guys will need a modified 4WD Ranger lift.
Some of this information/instruction may seem extremely basic or too detailed,
but remember not everyone is an ASE certified mechanic like you (no offense
to the guys that are).
This project took me around 4-5 hours so plan your project time for daylight.
You are doing this at your own risk so use common sense. I may have forgotten
a step here or there so ask me a question on the explorerforum.com
board or email me.
Click on the pictures below to get a larger one.
Tools Needed:
Parts Needed:
Let's get started:
A day or two before, apply liquid wrench to the top and bottom ball joint nuts and the steering arm nuts. They are the three large nuts that are attached to the spindle on the top, bottom, and front bumper end of the spindle assembly. If you get the spray type, be sure not spray near the rotor disk or brake pads. Brake + lubricant = no stop. Use a rag behind the nut to catch the overspray.
What I did first is to park the truck on level ground and take measurement at every corner so after the lift is completed you'd know if you need to back one of the torsion bars down/up as needed. Also this way you can tell how much lift you got.
Removal:
Now chock and block the rear wheels, loosen your front lug nuts, and jack and support the front end. Now remove your front tire. I put this here because I always forget to loosen the lugs and then try to take the tire off while it's in the air. No-go.
Anyway, moving on ... you should be at the point below.
OK, remove the brake caliper and hang it on the frame somewhere with wire or a coat hanger so there is no pressure on the brake line for obvious reasons. Remove the 2 large bolts that connect it to the spindle assembly (12mm?) not the bolt that have dust boots on them. Those will remove the piston assembly from the calipers.
Remove the spindle nut dust cap with channel lock pliers, the cotter pin, spindle nut retaining cap, the washer, and finally the spindle nut. Toss the cotter pin. Do NOT reuse the cotter pin unless you want to do some unintentional 3 wheel motion. Save the other parts. Clean the grease out as necessary, you'll be putting new grease on the new spindle anyway.
Go head and remove the wheel bearing and put it in a zip lock bag so you don't get it contaminated. Remove the rotor and cover it with a rag so you don't contaminate the wheel bearing grease inside, unless you feel like cleaning all the grease out and repacking it later. The inboard wheel bearing will stay inside of the rotor so don't worry about it.
So, everything should be like the picture below.
Remove the brake dust shield (3 small bolts) and place aside. You will not be re-installing these.
Remove the ABS (anti-lock) sensor from behind the spindle and move it out of the way. See below.
OK, let's rip the spindle out.
Remove the cotter pins from the lower ball joint as well as the steering arm. Toss them. Once again, Do NOT reuse the cotter pin unless you want to very rapidly lower your truck. OK, now back off the castle nuts a few turns but do not remove the nut. This is actually more important for the ball joint nuts but we'll do this to all of them to be safe.
Now grab the puller that you rented or purchased and attach it to the steering arm ball joint castle nut like below. For those who don't know what a Cotter pin puller looks like, it's the thing that looks like a screwdriver with a bent tip in the picture below.
Start cranking down on the puller. A warning, you may hear a VERY loud pop when these ball joints pop out. Don't jump and hit your head like I did. The reason I leave the nut on is that if there is a lot of pressure on the suspension, the puller or other parts may fly off. The nut keeps everything from separating rapidly.
Move the steering arm away and move on to the top ball joint. Loosen the bolt and slowly remove it. The pressure for the torsion bars should help pull it out. You may be able to whack it a few times to help pop it out. If not, give it some hearty whacks on top of the spindle, below the upper ball joint. Once it is free don't completely remove the top of the spindle from the ball joint. This will keep it from flopping over on to your head.
Now for the lower one. This is what you'll be working on. Remove and discard the Cotter pin if you have not already done so. Loosen but do not remove the lower ball joint castle nut.
Use the puller and break the lower ball joint free. This one will be an extreme pain in the ass! Once it is free. Take the castle nut off and remove the old spindle from the truck. Yay! Half way done.
Installation:
Installation is basically the reverse of the
removal of the old spindle.
Grab your new lift spindles and make sure you have the right side relative to
the side of the truck you're working on. If you're disoriented look on the side
that you haven't worked on yet, the steering linkage hole will be towards the
front.
This is where those 12 ounce curls you do every weekend come in handy. Grab the appropriate new spindle and spin on the lower ball joint castle nut finger tight while you curl the 40 pound "nodular iron" spindle with one hand. OK, if your arm hasn't fallen off, let's move to the top ball joint.
Place the floor jack below the lower ball joint castle nut and place a block of wood between them so the nut/bolt doesn't get damaged.
Slowly jack up the spindle and guide the top ball joint stud into the top of the spindle. If it doesn't go in, apply a little bit of Liquid Wrench and whack the top of the ball joint or A-arm with a rubber mallet. If the ball joint stud and the spindle arm is too close, jump under the truck and crank your torsion bars up to give you more room. I'm assuming that they are max ed out already because you, like I, have done the 1.5"TT lift.
Once it gets moving, place the new retaining bolt supplied into the hole. As you continue jacking/tapping, press the bolt so it will go completely through. Be careful, you can whack the bolt too far in and will have to separate it and start over.
Secure the bolt down to torque specs provided
in the crappy spindle directions provided. I'll post them here once I dig them
out again. Tighten the lower ball joint castle nut to torque specification from
your repair manual and put a new Cotter pin in.
Place the steering ball joint in the appropriate hole and tighten and torque
as above. Put the new Cotter pin in.
Replace the ABS sensor. You may have to reroute the ABS sensor cable so it doesn't
snap at full suspension droop.
Grease up the actual spindle up well with quality wheel bearing grease and re-mount the rotor, outboard wheel bearing (don't forget to repack the wheel bearing), washer, nut (torque to spec), nut retainer cap, NEW Cotter pin, and dust cap in reverse order of the way you first removed it.
This is a good time to inspect and or do a front brake job since you have everything off. Hence the (optional) parts in the list in the begriming. You could also replace the wheel bearings at this point. A good idea if you've been getting a odd howling noise coming from your front end or have been crossing deep water since they're not sealed. Refer to your repair manual for the directions for the above jobs.
Mount the wheel and move on to the other side.
When complete, you should have (2) old spindle assemblies, (2) dust shields, (2) upper ball joint retaining bolts, and various used Cotter pins ONLY.
Old and new parts side by side. NICE!
Well here's the after. The rear is a different write-up so stay tuned. By the
way, I did a SOA (spring over axle) to lift the rear. I have a Sport with a
single real axle leaf spring and could not use an Add-a-leaf besides, it only
cost me $16 to lift the rear.
...and the final before and after ...
Well, I hope that this How To was helpful. Enjoy!
Last updated 01.23.03
Contact me: harrywoh@yahoo.com